"I'm just sitting here watching the wheels go 'round and 'round. I really love to watch them roll."
— John Lennon, 1980
I'll admit. Life was easy with my '88 Acura Legend. Next to cool commodities like not having to carry cumbersome grocery bags on public transportation, this was especially true when visiting Sarah, after first meeting in the Spring of 2008. Back then, my girl from the north country was residing in Arlington, Virginia, a train transferring nightmare from where I'd lived in Takoma Park, Maryland. However, when the twenty-year old Honda-made automobile suddenly suffered a catastrophic oil leak, my life would change for the better.
Instead of maintaining the easy life by putting a down payment on another car, the next day — without second thought, I purchased a brand new bike at the local REI. But this was no ordinary bicycle; it was an all black Cannondale Bad Boy, one of the world's top rated. From that day on, me and my Bad Boy were inseparable, and I fell in love with the concept of cycling as a main mode of transportation for various reasons, such as health and to help cut back on air pollution. Moreover, I imagined the ideal world where bicycles ruled and automobiles were non-existent. A mere fantasy? Yeah, but not entirely. You see, there is a place right here on earth that not only adheres to my cycle dream, but to other beliefs held near and dear. It's a country located in the North-West region of Europe called the Netherlands, but commonly referred to as the bicycle friendly capital of the world. Ten years ago, after exploring Amsterdam, its famous capital city, the Netherlands has since remained close to my heart and one of the few European States I've explored more than once. On that note, during Part 2 of my birthday travel gift, next to rediscovering why I could spend the rest of my life in Amsterdam, Sarah and I got the great opportunity to explore many of its remarkable rooms to remember, such as a room with a magnificent view, a room for peace, a room with my first fan, and a little girl's secret room, while, rather unfortunately, Sarah wounded up in the emergency room...
"How does is feel to be
one of the beautiful people?
How often have you been there?
Often enough to know."
— John Lennon, 1967
WHEN RELAYING THAT Amsterdam is my all-time favorite European city, many reply with a smirk or even a snort. Due to its infamous cannabis coffee shops and disreputable red-light district, two of the city's main tourist attractions (and not to dismiss my resemblance of a 1970s hippie), many simply assume these are the sole reasons why I adore the place. Moreover, Amsterdam's laid back sex and drug reputation can also factor into the reason many Americans without passports believe the city to be an 'ugly and trashy place,' as I've often heard it referred. But allow me to set the record straight. If you were there — and I mean really there, and not just zonked out in a coffee shop or salivating over a sex show the whole time — you would have most likely discovered more of what the city has to offer culturally, politically and visually. With this in mind, for any readers out there harboring negative stereotypes of the Netherlands, here's a brief break down of some of the beauty it has to offer...
HOLLAND, AS IT IS commonly called due to its regional locale (but can be offensive to some Dutch natives), is officially the Kingdom of the Netherlands, and is 3,000 square miles larger than Maryland, my birth home, and equal to the size and double the population of Bulgaria, my current home away from home for the last four years.
A founding member of the European Union, the Netherlands shares a borderline with Belgium to the south and Germany to the east, and has three additional island territories in the Caribbean. Although Dutch is the majority language spoken in the Netherlands, English and German are also proficient. In fact, the Dutch spoke English so well, that it was often difficult determining whether or not many of the accent-less natives were Dutch.
Home of the Heineken, the Netherlands is also famous for its cheese, and soccer is by far the most beloved sport. With a long history of social tolerance, such as the legalization of prostitution, abortion, and euthanasia, as well as maintaining a progressive drug policy, and becoming the first country to legalize same-sex marriage, the Netherlands is generally regarded as the world's most liberal state — a fact that also reflects in their irreligious view and a cool belief that religion should be a personal matter and not displayed in public.
This brings to mind the people of the Netherlands, or, as I like to put it, 'the most important aspect of a country.' Although I've not yet traveled to every European state, there's no doubt about it; the Dutch were the most happy, healthy, stylish, mentally and physically attractive women and men I've witnessed, so far. And to top it all off — they were on bikes! But hey, don't just take my word for it; this episode just might lend some insight into the matter. Now, let's get on with the Amsterdam Experience...
"Turn off your mind, Relax, and float down stream.
It is not dying, it is not dying.
Lay down all thoughts, surrender to the void.
It is shining, it is shining."
— John Lennon, 1966
AS STATED IN THE PREVIOUS EPISODE, THIS was my second time visiting the Netherlands and a first for Sarah. And while the 2004 premiere journey (which was also my European debut) was extraordinary but brief, the second time around provided a couple more days to travel about the city, making for a more exhaustive exploration.
With that said, after a tranquil two-hour train ride through the wonderful western-most region of the Netherlands, Sarah and I arrived in the amazing Amsterdam, which I adoringly refer to as 'The Dam.' Like the first time around, I was immediately captivated by The Dam's delightful Dutch architecture and picturesque canals that run through the city, giving way to a worthy nickname as the 'Venice of the North.' It was also a treat to just observe Sarah, who was simply stunned by the Dutch capital.
Our first accommodation was Coco Mama, a hipster-esque hostel hosted by three lovely ladies named Elena and Solveiga from Latvia, and L.J. Claridge from England. Our room, which was artistically decorated in a forest theme, had a ring-side mesmerizing view of Princengracht street, where countless numbers of cyclists rolled into work each morning. Like a television set showing my favorite program, many times it was difficult for Sarah to pull me away from the window, as I often gazed out, while imagining how heavenly The Dam would be for Bad Boy.
For instance, because traveling by bicycle is facilitated by an outstanding Dutch cycling foundation, that includes protection of intersections (which explains the helmet-less riders), easy parking, shorter bike routes and paths, bicycles seem to greatly out number automobiles by a long shot. It was simply otherworldly! Furthermore, in most places on Earth, cycling seems to be a mode of transportation dominated by the youth. This odd disproportion certainly wasn't the case in the Netherlands. Whether young or old — man or woman, people from all walks of life were traveling by two-wheels; some even carried toddlers or were accompanied by friends or pets riding in a side car or on the back.
Now, with all this bicycle love going down in The Dam, one might be asking 'why didn't you rent a bike and peruse the city, O?' Well, this time it wasn't because I didn't want to cheat on my Bad Boy. To be perfectly honest, it was for safety measures. You see, having ridden the world's greatest bike steady from 2008 to 2009, I just assumed that I'd acquire grade-A cycling skills. However, after witnessing the sheer speed and agility of the Dutch cyclists, insecurity crept in, making me fear the worst, like causing an accident or getting injured. And even though, as previously stated, the Dutch tops the list of the most friendliest and happiest people I've ever encountered on foot, when they are riding them two-wheelers, they are, understandably, quite serious and tend to be aggressive or stern toward us silly tourists carelessly walking into bike lanes or recklessly riding rent-a-bikes.
Roll up. And that's an invitation.
Roll up for the mystery tour.
Roll up. To make a reservation.
Roll up for the mystery tour."
— Lennon-McCartney, 1967
WITH THE DAM'S GRADE-A CYCLING IN MIND, to be sure that we'd arrive back in Bulgaria alive and kicking — but still get the most out of the Amsterdam Experience — instead of renting bikes, Sarah and I did what we hardly ever do when traveling together and signed up for one of those Free Tours of the city, which was guided by a cool and knowledgeable native named Kor Hoebe.
In addition to pointing out off the beaten path subtleties, like leaning buildings and the narrowest house in The Dam, Kore educated us on a rather surprising, but reasonable fact. After several tour participants — including myself — asked questions regarding the city's cannabis culture, the natural platinum blond set the record straight by relaying that "a major majority of Dutch citizens are not marijuana and hash users," and further insisted that cannabis was generally utilized by tourists. Due to this little known fact, Kor additionally pointed out that over 3,000 coffee shops have closed within the last 5 years or so.
Speaking of the green stuff, next to visiting the Marijuana and Hash Museum, as well as some of the city's most popular cannabis coffee shops, like Mellow Yellow and Grey Area, other iconic destinations seen on the Amsterdam Experience were the Royal Palace, Nieuwe Kerk, and my all-time favorite chill spot Dam Square.
To save on Euros, after the Free Tour Sarah and I headed back to Coco Mama where my girl from the north country whipped us up a savory dinner in the hostel's handy kitchen. During the late evening hours, L.J. gave us what I'd been waiting patiently for ever since arriving in The Dam; a personal tour of the sexy and seedy de Wallen, the city's largest and most famous red light district, which included a glimpse into the world of many sex workers and a live show at Theatre Casa Rosso.
"Took a walk down the street Thru the heat whispered trees I thought I could hear Somebody call out my name"
— John lennon, 1974
I'LL ADMIT. SINCE ACTING IN MY FIRST FILM — just one month after moving to the Sunflower Capital of the World in October of 2009, I have secretly desired being recognized by an ordinary stranger. Well, it finally happened, but, to my utter surprise, in the most unlikely of places: Amsterdam. You see, it all occurred after the Free Tour, when Sarah and I had to move from Coco Mama to a bed and breakfast, also located in the city's center.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by a friendly, flamboyant Filipino ex-pat wearing roller-blades named Edwin, the owner and host of our accommodation. While giving a tour of his home, which was leaning ever so lovely and colorfully furnished, Edwin pondered over my face being familiar, but couldn't place exactly where he had seen me. Because I'd occasionally heard this from strangers — even before making a film, the idea of Edwin spotting me in one never even crossed my mind.
Besides, the inquisitiveness of the Filipino host seemed more like a conversation starter, which, in fact, led to learning about many things we had in common, such as a love for sci-fi-fantasy films and art making. However, it was during the next evening when I'd discovered that Edwin's curiosity wasn't just small talk. Hours after he was showing me his artwork — a brilliant collection of handmade dolls — he'd shouted up to our room, "Owen, come here right away!"
After racing down the staircase to see what the matter was, I was stunned to discover that Edwin had a TiVo recording of me paused from a scene in Super Eruption, a 2011 SyFy movie starring MyAnna Buring and Richard Burgi. While excitedly pointing and grinning at the screen, Edwin then declared, "now I remember where I saw you!!!" But soon afterward, the host's excitement turned to curiosity, as he puzzled, "now tell me, how did you get into my [expletive] TV set!?!" Sheepishly, yet proudly, I explained the story of how I'd ended up acting in major films and television movies. And even though Edwin was already quite welcoming beforehand, after that moment he turned a bit starstruck and was greatly honored to have a "movie star," as he called me, staying in his home. So, each morning before starting the day off, Edwin supplied me with a hot cup of green tea.
"Everybody's making love
and no one really cares.
There's Nazis in the bathroom
Just below the stairs."
— John Lennon, 1984
WITH THE ABUNDANCE OF HAPPINESS abound, the one and only melancholy moment on the Amsterdam Experience was a visit to The Anne Frank House, one of the most significant tourist attractions in all of the Netherlands and perhaps even the world.
Although it was my second time exploring the biographical museum dedicated to young Jewish wartime diarist Anne Frank, her detailed documentation of hiding for two-years in a concealed room with her family during Nazi occupation, as well as the exhibition's general space regarding all forms of hatred, discrimination and persecution, was just as powerful — leaving me once again emotionally struck.
Sarah, who was also deeply moved, purchased The Diary of a Young Girl, which she barely put down for the duration of the Amsterdam Experience. There's not much more I can share regarding The Anne Frank House, as it is simply one of those must-see destinations that can only be witnessed first hand.
With that said, for those who might be planning their next journey to The Dam, with the idea of exploring The Anne Frank House, I strongly suggest doing two things: first and foremost, get there early to avoid massive lines, which can miraculously wrap around a few blocks and last up to 3 or more hours in waiting. And finally, while you're there, go ahead and kill two birds with one stone by reserving a spot at The Pancake Bakery, located a block away from The Anne Frank House on Prinsengracht street.
Boasting the motto 'the best pancakes in town,' The Pancake Bakery serves pancakes, ironically, the size of a bicycle wheel, with a big bowl of real maple syrup on the side. Although they may lack the typical thickness of an American style cake, they taste so yummy, it'll make you smack some body's mommy!
"Drove from Paris to the Amsterdam Hilton. Talking in our beds for a week." — John Lennon, 1969
I'D SAY PEACEFUL IS The best way of describing The Dam in one word. With that said, it doesn't surprise me that musical minister of peace John Lennon and his then newly wed wife Yoko One used the Hilton Amsterdam to stage their 1969 "Bed-In" for peace protest against the Vietnam War. And because Lennon and that little known band that he used to play in are just four of my all-time biggest heroes that ever walked the planet, there was no way I was leaving The Dam without paying a visit to this iconic location.
However, after arriving at the Hilton, which was located near Vondelpark, there was one vital problem we'd face: the hotel lobby was heavily guarded by security. So, after putting on the best impersonation of a magazine editor looking for a Lennon cover story, we were unfortunately turned away after discovering that the legendary "bed-in" quarters was off limits to tourists and uh... fake journalist.
But when considering that the illustrious room is still being utilized for customers, this was an understandable measure taken on the Hilton's part. Besides, not getting inside the interior wasn't so disappointing for a couple of reasons: one, I was greatly satisfied with seeing the exterior, which, by the way, looked as it did during the original protest. And two, being that the Hilton's owners didn't go Graceland-style by leaving John and Yoko's room exactly as it was in good old '69, Sarah and I would have been simply getting a glimpse of your run-of-the-mill hotel suite.
"Help! I need somebody!
Help! Not just anybody!
Help! You know I need someone! Help!
— John Lennon, 1965
WHILE TAKING A BREAK FROM RIDING BAD Boy during the Fall of 2008, Sarah and I embarked on our first European journey to the incredible Ireland. Although the trip was pretty awesome, while staying in a bed and breakfast on the countryside, Sarah developed an allergic reaction to several venomous spider bites. Granted she was treated sufficiently, this incident gives possible conclusion to a similar situation that occurred during the Amsterdam Experience, which resulted in a short stay at a local hospital.
It all happened after returning from the Hilton, when Sarah discovered several ugly and painful sores on her arms and lower back region, which began to swell and itch unbearably. Thankfully, not too far from the hotel was the VU Medical Center, that Sarah, the world's greatest navigator, quickly located — even while suffering from bites 8-legged creature bites. Well, perhaps it was our foreign nature or simply the proficiency of the Dutch medical system, but unlike in the U.S., where anyone can wait for hours to see a doctor, Sarah got checked in within minutes' time.
After a wonderful and knowledgeable female Dutch doctor diagnosed Sarah's wounds to be some kind of insect or arthropod bites, she then prescribed her a strong intravenous antibiotic, which required rest and relaxation for one hour in a hospital bed. Thankfully, we got out just in time enough to pay a visit to a couple of amazing art and history museums where many iconic works by several of the Netherlands's native sons were exhibited.
The first was the Rijksmuseum, one of the city's most visited destinations, which featured delicious art by the likes of Rembrandt van Rijn, Johannes Vermeers, Willem de Kooning, and Jan Jansz Mostaert's Portrait of a Moor (1530), the only known painting of a Black man in early European paintings.
And last but certainly not least, several hours were spent salivating inside the highly recommended Van Gogh Museum, which displayed many of the artist's well-known works, such as Sunflowers (1889), Self-Portrait (1888) and Sarah's favorite, The Potato Eaters (1885). Again, for those planning a trip to The Dam hoping to visit Vincent's gallery, I strongly suggest booking tickets on-line, a day or two in advance, to avoid enormous crowds.
"Though I know I'll never lose affection
For people and things that went before
I know I'll often stop and think about them
In my life, I love you more."
— John Lennon, 1965
AFTER THE ART MUSEUM FUN, YOU KNOW your boy had to hit up all the hot mom-and-pop music shops that still surprisingly exist in The Dam. Because CD shopping can range anywhere from 5 to 10 hours, Sarah left me on my own, while she did a little coffee drinking and cheese buying. Later in the evening, the Traveling Twosome ended the final night of the Amsterdam Experience dining out at a yummy Chinese food restaurant on a canal, while reminiscing over an unforgettable birthday journey to Belgium and the Netherlands.
The next morning, after bidding a final farewell to Edwin, Sarah and I raced for the next train to the airport back to Sofia. As I sat in a window seat watching the bikes roll by, I'd once again imagined that world where bicycles ruled and automobiles were non-existent. I thought about Bad Boy and how I could easily spend the rest of my life in Amsterdam. Then a strange feeling came over me. One that I'd never experienced when departing an exploration. It felt like I was leaving home. I'll admit. I lied when I said that The Anne Frank House was the only melancholy moment on the Amsterdam Experience. This was the second. Be seeing you. O
